Ask the inspector.

No. Storm-chasing door knockers are the single biggest source of NM insurance-claim regret I see. Any legitimate roofer will wait for you to call them. Take his card, then call your insurance carrier yourself — the adjuster inspects before any roofer does. My roofer red-flags cheatsheet has the full list of tactics to watch for.

Because they're bidding different scopes. One is probably including a full tear-off, new decking where needed, ice-and-water shield at eaves and valleys, and a manufacturer system warranty. The other is bidding a lay-over with the cheapest 3-tab shingle he can source. This is exactly why I write a scope of work you hand to every bidder — apples to apples, or the number is meaningless.

Usually not. Ponding on NM flat roofs is almost always a slope or drain problem, not a membrane problem. A proper diagnosis looks at the tapered insulation, drains, and scuppers first. Replacement is a $15k–$40k answer to what's often a $2k–$6k slope correction plus recoat. Get a second opinion before you sign — and use my recoat vs. replace scorer.

Yes — three. First, request the adjuster's report in writing and read it carefully; denials are often based on a missed damage type (hail vs. wind vs. wear). Second, get an independent inspection with photos and IR before you appeal. Third, if the damage was real and documented, request re-inspection with your independent report attached — NM carriers reverse a meaningful share of denials at this step. My insurance claims guide walks through the whole sequence.

Yes, in almost every case. City of Albuquerque and Bernalillo County both require a permit for reroofs. A contractor who tells you 'we don't pull permits, saves you money' is telling you two things: he can't get one, or he's about to install without one. Either way, walk. Unpermitted work voids most manufacturer warranties and can kill your homeowners insurance.

Well-installed 30-year architectural shingles on a properly ventilated attic in ABQ typically get 20–25 years before real problems start. The UV here is brutal, and most shingle failures I see are from cheap 3-tab installed in the 2000s or from attics with no intake ventilation cooking the underside. If a roofer is telling you your 12-year-old shingle roof needs replacement, get a second opinion — probably a repair.

No. NM standard for residential roofing is 0–33% down at signing, progress payment when materials are on site, and final payment on completion after your walkthrough. 50% up front is the deposit structure of a shop that's using your money to finish somebody else's job. My contract red-flag review covers every payment term to challenge.

Tear off, almost every time. Yes, code allows one lay-over in most NM jurisdictions. Yes, it saves ~$1,500. But you lose the ability to see and replace bad decking, you double the roof weight on your structure, and you cut the new shingle's lifespan by ~30% because the substrate is uneven and hotter. I've never once written a report recommending a lay-over to a homeowner who was going to live in the house another 10+ years.

Not yet. Ask for a pre-purchase inspection first. TPO in NM commonly runs 20–25 years if the seams and penetrations were done right. The question is not age — it's seam condition, membrane thickness remaining, and whether the drains and flashings are still watertight. A $349–$449 pre-purchase report will tell you whether to negotiate a price reduction, escrow money for future work, or walk. Replacement demands without evidence get laughed out of most negotiations.

Yes. NM HOAs have broad authority over exterior appearance and roofing is almost always covered. The fix is to submit before you order — my HOA approval kit has the checklist and the letter template. Most HOAs approve within 30 days if you submit product cutsheets, color, and manufacturer literature up front. The horror stories all come from homeowners who ordered first and asked second.

For a written report you can hand to an insurer, buyer, or bidder: $149–$449 depending on roof size, complexity, and materials. Free walk-around visits (verbal findings, photos on request) I offer at $0. Anyone charging $600+ for a single-family residential inspection is either doing structural engineering (different scope) or overcharging. My inspection cost calculator has the full breakdown by roof type.

Maybe, maybe not. Skylight leaks in NM are 60%+ flashing/curb issues, not the glass unit itself, and are usually fixable for $200–$800 without touching the skylight. But a brown stain means active or recent water intrusion — track it before the next monsoon. Run the skylight leak diagnostic tree on my site, take one photo of the stain and one of the skylight from outside, and email me. I'll tell you if it's DIY, a $500 repair, or worth booking a real inspection.

Upgrade — significantly. Synthetic underlayment (Titanium, RhinoRoof, GAF Deck-Armor) is stronger, lighter, tear-resistant, and doesn't wrinkle in NM heat the way 30# felt does. If a contractor is proposing synthetic at no upcharge, that's a good sign. If he's proposing 15# felt to save $150, that's a bad sign about what else got value-engineered out of the bid.

Twice a year — once before monsoon (May) and once after (October) — plus after any hail or 60+ mph wind event. You're not diagnosing, you're looking for changes: missing shingles, lifted flashings, granule piles in gutters, cracked mortar around vents, or new interior stains. My maintenance schedule generator prints a checklist by roof type with the seasonal reminders built in.

Usually the adjuster is closer to right, but not always. Contractors have a financial incentive to find damage; adjusters have a financial incentive not to. The tiebreaker is an independent inspection with test squares, IR imaging, and dated storm data cross-referenced. If real functional hail damage is present, my report gets carriers to reopen roughly 4 of 5 disputed claims. If it isn't, I tell you that too — and you save a claim on your record.